Saturday, October 24, 2009

Wading down the coast

Arturo and I in the end of Maracaipe beach:
a path in Maracaipe:
Carneiros beach and church, 17th century church:

Teresina was hot. Too hot. I was glad to leave, but I miss the hotel breakfast. It was pretty awesome.

From Teresina, we took a bus to Recife. We went to visit a family that I know and stayed with before and unfortuately, they moved. Then we took a bus to Porto de Galinhas, which used to be a small fishing town protected by coral reefs. I passed through a couple of times in 2002, and then 2004. First, my cheap hotel, which was really hidden behind a restaurant, was torn down and the whole town was converted into some weird resort-esque gringo colony. Pretty depressing actually. We ended up hoofing it 3 km south to a small town called Maracaipe, which has still maintained it´s small town essence. We stayed for a week, camping on the beach, until Children´s Day went by and we left to continue south.

We ended up in some other small towns, invited to stay with a family, camping out in front of their house. The family is very poor, but they offered us everything. The mother cooked for us every day, invited us to the granddaughter´s 2nd birthday party and took us around on their boat to the neighboring town. Their boat, like most of the boats, is a large canoe with a peque peque motor... that means that they get a beefed up edge clipper (yes, the one that cuts grass) and they use it as the boat motor. It´s real long and looks really funny, but works great.

house amongst the mangroves in Rio Formoso:
view along Rio Formoso:
more to come later... I ran out of time!

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